George Chinsee/World Water Day
Fresh from winning the CFDA Emerging Designer Award, Diotima designer Rachel Scott upped the ante with her fall 2024 collection, shown Monday night in a presentation format featuring rum cocktails that nod to her Caribbean heritage.
“There are some things I had been doing before but not in such a big way. This time, with so many eyes on the brand, she wanted to expand the language. It’s crochet but also tailoring, knitwear, macramé. The basis of the collection is always craftsmanship and savoir-faire, but I really wanted to enhance it with craftsmanship.”
From the looks of it, it’s ready for takeoff.
She did it with brightly colored versions of her sculptural sleeveless crochet tunics that looked great under blazers, miniskirts and curve-shaping dresses constructed from overlapping mats that cling to the body like sea creatures. There were also extraordinary macramé dresses with curve-hugging shapes with bow and fringe details. Metallic Lurex ribbon and crystals were crafted into flowers on a gorgeous vest and clutch that could represent a burgeoning new category of accessories for the designer. And Scott offered his vision of “fur” jackets made with knotted spaghetti fringes, which also adorned a pantsuit, giving it a Western feel.
“I really like playing with textures,” said the designer, explaining how she perforated a cotton kaftan dress with a giant mesh panel and expanded the idea of woven mesh to create intarsia knits that are warm and cozy but with a touch of skin.
The collection has grown 30 percent in size. “I’m trying to develop the brand. We don’t have a store, obviously, but I want to bring more people into the world. I just got a studio and I want to try to build that space so I can have people,” she said. “I want to have that connection.”
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