Tuesday, February 27, 2024
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HomeFashionNYFW Fall Winter 2024: Gucci stars Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung and Prada,...

NYFW Fall Winter 2024: Gucci stars Jason Wu, Prabal Gurung and Prada, from Jessica Chastain to Kiki Layne


Ask anyone who works in the fashion industry and they will quickly tell you that it is a competitive, sometimes brutal business, and they wouldn’t dream of doing anything else. Another truism: the creatives behind this appear to outwardly possess spines made of steel, and yet every element of their soul will go into a collection.

That was certainly true on the first day of New York Fashion Week, when Prabal Gurung presented a totally poetic Fall Winter 2024 collection inspired by personal loss. Gurung, born in Singapore, was raised by Nepalese parents in Kathmandu, and has often said that he knew from a young age that he wanted to come to the US and launch his own label; That decision, however, strained his relationship with his father, who died last November. “I always had a strained relationship with him and now I had to go back to Nepal and deal with it,” he said. The Hollywood Reporter behind the scenes before the presentation of the collection. “You know, no one teaches you how to cry, no one talks about it. But while I was there I came across all these old journals I had, where I talked about wanting to work in fashion, and there were all these pressed flowers between the pages. And for the first time, I also looked at old photographs of my father’s family. I felt very comforted and this collection emerged from all of that.”

In fact, comfort was a key descriptor of the clothes Gurung designed, from cashmere coats and shearling coats that were essential to the body-wrapping theme to evening dresses that exhibited beautiful movement through a feeling. of subtle deconstruction.

“The pieces of mine that would normally have beads are hand-cut strips of chiffon and organza that took months to sew by hand,” Gurung explained of the latter. “And I like how they start off strong and then there’s kind of a crumbling effect.”

Prabal Gurung Track

Prabal Gurung Track

Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images (3)

With Kiki Layne among the celebrities in the front row at Gurung, the designer’s love of tailoring was also very evident, with suits crafted in crimson velvet or sparkling silver beads, but if any of his designs are set to be a surprise at the next red carpets, it will be those hand-sewn dresses. “Sometimes you have to create those unexpected moments,” Gurung added.

Kiki Layne - Prabal Gurung - Fashion Show - NYFW

Kiki Layne at Prabal Gurung Fall Winter 2024

Gotham/Wire Image

Deconstruction was also quickly revealed as a theme at Jason Wu’s Fall Winter 2024 collection debut on the afternoon of February 11, though his desire was rooted in exploring the beauty of construction. With stars like Diane Kruger, Misty Copeland and Louisa Jacobson in the front row, Wu said she wanted to create a collection that felt inspired by “two heroes,” Charles James and Geoffrey Beene, which she accomplished well with structured ballgowns that They evoked the front row. designer and elegant pleated dresses by Fortuny, in a length that hits a few inches above the ankle for a modern sensibility, as part of a tribute to Mr. Beene. “What brought it all together are these master’s degrees that I’ve studied, because I’m a fashion nerd,” Wu told THR backstage after the show.

“In American fashion today, he’s really one of the pioneers of craftsmanship,” Kruger told THR. “His designs are the closest we can get to what we see in European workshops, also because he doesn’t follow fashion as much as he follows his own instincts, and it is always timeless, wearable and beautiful. For me he is the real deal.”

Jacobson agreed. “Jason surprises me every time because he’s not afraid to take risks and yet he’s always very wearable,” she said. The golden age Actress. “He is also a wonderful rug designer, because he has incredible attention to detail for that specific purpose: he not only creates designs that photograph beautifully, but he also knows how to create something that gives a woman incredible confidence.” .

Jason Wu Fall Winter 2024

Jason Wu Fall Winter 2024

Courtesy of Jason Wu

For this latest collection, Wu also named British illustrator Arthur Rackham as an influence, an influence he had explored in his fall 2009 collection, shortly after designing Michelle Obama’s inaugural ball gown (Wu also designed the gown for the Mrs. Obama for the inaugural ball in 2013). Dubbing this collection “Arthur 2.0,” Wu noted that it is also the first time in years that he has been able to hold the designs in his hands during the creation process. “Because I’m always in meetings, because fashion is a business,” she added. (That’s also why, for the first time, he brought the team out of their workrooms with him for the final bow: “because I couldn’t do it without them.”)

Meanwhile, Wu called an ingenious strapless ballgown made of muslin “the dress I always wanted to make,” she said. “It was hard to do and I don’t think he would have had the maturity to do it before.” A balance of deconstruction created through an elegant eye, the dress is the clearest example of Wu’s desire to create a thoughtful and elegant update of the work he produced 15 years ago. “I’ve always been known as a pretty and feminine designer, but after 15 years I wanted to show my evolution,” she said. “So what I imagined is that I took the pieces from that 2009 collection, put them away, got them moth-eaten, and put them back together, but in a kind of fucked-up way, and you can quote me on that. .”

Amid collection presentations and several mentions of how American fashion can and should compete with European brands, two high-profile Italian brands have also been in New York to promote their own launches. On February 9, Prada Beauty debuted the U.S. launch of its Skin and Color collection at a party in Williamsburg that included Sofia Richie Grainge, sisters Maude and Iris Apatow, Tommy Dorfman, Emily Ratajkowski, Bella Hadid and Katie Holmes.

Iris Apatow (L) and Maude Apatow attend the Prada Makeup and Skincare Launch Party at Skylight at The Refinery in Brooklyn on February 9, 2024 in New York City.

Iris Apatow (L) and Maude Apatow attend the Prada Makeup and Skincare Launch Party at Skylight at The Refinery in Brooklyn on February 9, 2024 in New York City.

Gotham/GC Images/Getty Images

The following night, Gucci paired the U.S. arrival of Ancora, creative director Sebato De Sarno’s first collection for the house, with a look at the brand’s revamped Wooster Street boutique, which De Sarno also designed to reflect his aesthetic. , including adding a video. modernist installations and sculptures by Taezoo Park, Larry Bell and others.

Daisy Edgar-Jones - Jessica Chastain - Gucci - Wooster Street - New York Boutique

Daisy Edgar-Jones (left) and Jessica Chastain at Gucci Wooster Street in New York.

Billy Farrell/BFA.com. Courtesy of Gucci

Anyone familiar with Gucci’s credibility among Hollywood stars should not be surprised by the host of celebrities in attendance, including Jessica Chastain, Daisy Edgar-Jones, Elliot Page, Jodie Turner-Smith, Kingsley Ben-Adir , Beanie Feldstein and many more. (much others.

Gucci - Wooster Street Boutique - New York

The newly renovated Gucci boutique on Wooster Street in New York.

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