Tommy Hilfiger’s look for fall 2024 is money.
It said “see you” to see now, buy now for fall 2024, repositioning its womenswear in a more luxurious context: Grand Central Oyster Bar, with its new ambassador Sofia Richie Grainge front and center.
“The idea is that we are rising,” Hilfiger said during a preview of Friday’s show, titled “New York Minute.” “We’re doing everything from tailoring to casual and something in between, but definitely more sophisticated. The shapes are more modern. The fabrics come from Italy. The DNA is still attached to the brand, but it is done in a very new way.”
The American designer has always had a knack for reading the zeitgeist of fashion pop culture, with a key focus in recent years on democratizing fashion. She tapped Gigi Hadid for an immersive, Instagrammable carnival near South Street Seaport in 2016 and staged a ’70s-inspired show co-designed by Zendaya in Paris in 2019. She ventured into Lewis Hamilton and the rising popularity of Formula 1 to a collaboration with Tommy Jeans in 2020, and has been optimistic about selling seasonal styles off the runway until September 2022, when he hosted a “Tommy Factory” at Brooklyn’s Skyline Drive-in to launch a collaboration with the Andy Foundation Warhol.
This season, he’s read the culture again and people want to be, or at least appear, rich.
A recent study from Intuit Credit Karma found that both Generation Z (born between 1996 and 2012) and Millennials (born between 1981 and 1996) noted a general obsession with getting rich, a sentiment amplified by social media, where the wedding of Grainge in 2023, a quiet luxury marketing giant, transfixed viewers and gained 2 million followers.
“If you look at the prices in the luxury market, they are unattainable and they can get away with it thanks to their customer base,” Hilfiger said. “That’s why we want to offer them affordable luxury and the best premium product there is… something they can have forever: timeless classics with a modern twist.”
The two-year collaboration between Hilfiger and Grainge will culminate in co-designed collections and curations starting in the summer.
“We really believe she is in the middle of the zeitgeist,” he said.
Generally speaking, Hilfiger’s men’s business has always outperformed its women’s business, “but ultimately it should be the opposite. And in Europe, we’ve gotten a lot of traction in women’s design,” she said, explaining that while she used to have separate design teams in New York and Europe for women’s design, now the entire team is based in Europe.
The elevated look translated into classic tweed suits and melted wool pea coats, camel coats, varsity jackets, pleated or wide-leg corduroy miniskirts, and Hilfiger’s OG take on sports prep, with plenty of rugby shirts, polos, pants High waist khaki, sailor style. and polypropylene stripes, which European brands such as Dries Van Noten, Gucci and Miu Miu have already shown on the catwalk in anticipation of the Paris Summer Olympics.
“We’re seeing a resurgence of cardigans… We reinvented chinos, making them very high waisted and loose cut… we already have these high waisted looks in denim, we can’t keep them in stock,” he said.
“The idea is that a lot of this will be done in a more time-consuming way, because of the tailoring and the Italian-sourced fabrics,” he said of returning to being shown on the traditional fashion calendar.
Those who didn’t see, didn’t buy were now able to see and purchase the latest Tommy Hilfiger pieces modeled by A-list guests Grainge, Damson Idris and rapper Grand Puba, who Hilfiger worked with early in his fashion career. All pieces are on the designer’s e-commerce website.
Owner PVH Corp. is confident in Hilfiger’s change of strategy. While the group saw moderate declines in the middle of the year, Tommy Hilfiger gained momentum in December with a 34 percent increase in its “brand heat” on social media from a year earlier. Grainge should take advantage of that in a New York minute.