Tuesday, March 5, 2024
Tuesday, March 5, 2024
HomeFashionWilly Chavarría is ready for NYFW

Willy Chavarría is ready for NYFW

New York Fashion Week officially begins on Friday and Willy Chavarría is the talk of the town. You can feel it in the energy in his Greenpoint studio, where he’s preparing for his Friday night show: It’s his time.

With gender mixing at its core, Chavarria is conflicted about launching a separate womenswear collection, but teased the idea by turning to model Dilone for a WWD preview of his fall 2024 collection , which he describes as a mix of “Feud: Truman Capote vs. Los cisnes” and “Griselda”, the new Netflix series by Sofía Vergara about the leader of the cartel Griselda Blanco.

“Women’s clothing, women’s clothing, women’s clothing, what is women’s clothing? Who is a woman, who is a man? We’re all swans, darling! Chavarría smiles.

For fall, their new American tailoring comes in luxurious traditional tweeds. The exquisitely shouldered houndstooth Staple blazer that Dilone wears with a floor-length double-breasted coat and Jalisco pants is special enough to hang in the closet next to an Armani or Saint Laurent. An exaggerated wool plaid tie-neck blouse feels like an instant classic. And for the first time, it shows Willy Chavarria bags with thick gold hardware with the “WC” logo.

A culmination of decades of experience working at Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and elsewhere, he has zeroed in on the characteristics of his brand and is elevating them.

Dilone in a shearling Hustler jacket, cotton plaid blouse, Badboy jeans, and custom earrings created with Chrishabana.

Diego Bendezú/World Water Day

In 2023, Chavarría won the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year award, the Designer of the Year award at the Latin American Awards, and left his position as senior vice president of design at Calvin Klein to focus solely on his own nine years. old business.

And already heading into a strong 2024. Selling wholesale for the first time, her collection is now at Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, and soon at Maxfield and Dover Street Market. The influence of his Latin style, curvy waist and broad shoulders, oversized workwear and Western touches could be seen on men’s catwalks in Europe in January, from JW Anderson to Louis Vuitton.

“It’s flattering, but I wish one of those houses would hire me and make it easy for them!” he laughs.

Hollywood has also taken notice of its rise. Although Chavarría does not have the money to pay to perform, he has long attracted the attention of celebrities, including Madonna, Kendrick Lamar, Travis Scott and Sam Smith, among others. But the awards season spotlight is on the next level, and the recent exposure of famous women in particular could further fuel the androgynous trend in fashion.

For the Golden Globes, Billie Eilish wore his oversized black jacket, striped shirt, and wide-leg khaki shorts on the red carpet, and at the Grammys, he turned to it again for an oversized white shirt, black pants, and tie.

Billie Eilish in Willy Chavarría

Billie Eilish in Willy Chavarría.

Tommaso Boddi/Golden Globes

“Billie shops, which is great because a lot of people want it for free,” Chavarría said, reflecting on the reality that designers typically have to pay out of their own pockets to send clothes to be considered a celebrity, only to often have the opportunity. It seems not to be used. “I actually had to say ‘no’ to someone really important. It would have cost me a fortune. It was a dress that would have cost me thousands of dollars to make and during fashion week. I’m too small now. I don’t have an atelier that can take care of this, even so I would be the one who would do it, taking the measurements and making the pattern. “I’m not there yet, but I will be.”

Many cool girls have recently been wearing their towering men’s suits and enormous handmade silk flower bouquets, including new style star Ayo Edebiri in a recent “Saturday Night Live” promotion and Tracee Ellis Ross during the press tour from his Christmas movie “Candy.” Cane Lane.

“You know, about 30 percent of our customer base has always been women. And in our online store, women definitely buy. I’m not sure about wholesale yet, it’s still very structured: men’s floor, women’s floor. So until that changes, or at least until I officially launch a line for women, it will be primarily for men,” she said.

On Friday night’s runway, Chavarría will debut leather accessories, including a giant briefcase that could be its own filing cabinet, a crossbody bag and a clutch, which are made in the same Italian factory that Chanel uses. The prices, at least for the two smaller bags, try to keep them below $2,000.

It’s also expanding its jewelry offering, with baroque-looking stone and pearl cross necklaces and earrings that are “Lacroix but a little more Catholic,” said the Mexican-American designer, whose parents were farmworkers.

On the studio wall is a small gold cross mounted next to a ponytail of Chavarría’s hair, which she recently cut. “He looks like a little baby hamster, people are praying to him,” she said impassively.

In addition to global wholesale, he recently relaunched his website and started working with a distribution center, things he’s had time to do since leaving Calvin Klein in July.

The designer in Chachi fit jeans, Buffalo t-shirt and leather vest from his fall collection.

The designer in Chachi fit jeans, Buffalo t-shirt and leather vest from his fall collection.

Diego Bendezú/World Water Day

“I’m happy with the impact I had. And I’m happy to move on to the next stages. I didn’t realize until after I left how much more time and energy I needed for my own brand. Looking back, I’m not sure how I did both.”

Chavarría, who has walked at famed New York leather bar The Eagle as well as Marble Collegiate Church, uses the runway for social commentary. He has woven stories of mass incarceration and immigrant labor into his collections, and integrated working-class heroes (mechanics, altar boys, teams of low-riders) into his work.

“What I offer is not just baggy pants or an oversized plaid shirt; “It is a window into a part of our culture that is not normally seen or offered,” she said. “Everything I do is political.”

The fall show, titled “Safe from Harm,” will take place in the same building as his studio, where he has 14 employees. “I want to give something back to the city and the people who have supported me, something that can last after the show,” is all she said ahead of time. “All of this is so that everyone feels heard, seen and loved with respect and dignity.”

With this collection, it seeks to continue cultivating a broader range of customers.

“I have a fan base that likes wide, huge legs. Now I offer a slimmer one and some simpler silhouettes so that more people can enter the brand and be part of the atmosphere. And you don’t have to be a catwalk model.”

It is currently courting investors to move to the next stage of growth. “I want to be a legacy brand and I want the luxury part to continue, but I also want to always keep a very low price point for the mass market,” he says, highlighting the importance of collaborations with Dickies and PacSun, among others. .

“And it’s not so much that the brand will always be rooted in my culture, but rather the philosophy that everyone belongs.”

The appeal of the Telfar bag stands out because it means equality for everyone. Similarly, the Chavarría brand has a value system: “It’s an exclusivity of inclusion,” he says.

“I think fashion needs heart and that’s what’s missing. That’s why we get bored of things and we see certain ads and there’s nothing in them,” she says, referencing the Gucci ad on the back page of a magazine. “It’s when we see the heart and soul that we stop, look twice, and fall in love.”

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